Have Your Wine and Eat It Too

It’s simply not enough for me to drink a glass of wine alongside my dinner. I’ve found that I seek out any which way to include wine, or any other alcoholic beverage, in the cooking process. A wise Food Network chef (I watch too much of this channel to pinpoint exactly which one) once said that wine imparts a subtle depth of flavor to your food. As a wine-doused sauce simmers, or as a dash of Cointreau inaugurates a dramatic flambé for your crèpe, the alcohol burns out (sadly), and your ingredients are left with a heightened sense of character and flavor.

So the next time you are slicing a pear for that salad trio we know and love and see on so many contemporary American restaurant menus: pear, Roquefort cheese, pecans – poach it!

If it be a chilly winter night, cloak your fruit in a dark shade of red, with a splash of syrah. If it be a summertime barbeque we speak of, hit the sauvignon blanc. Or if it’s girls’ night in, pour in some rosé, and before you’ve handed out a round of cosmos, your pears' flesh will turn light pink. I happened to have some chardonnay on hand, so that's what my pears bathed in, pictured above.

The technique is simple: In a large saucepan, you mix wine, water, and citrus peel for added freshness. Once about to boil, peeled pears are nestled in to poach. Once removed and cooled, they are a joyous salad mix-in, or as in the salad below, a showstopper when plumped up with blue cheese filling.

The pears’ texture completely transforms into something delicate and tender, and not your everyday fare. If you’re going to go for the greens, it’s got to have an extra something special. So next time you’re at a loss for inspiration, close your fridge and open wide that liquor cabinet.

Serves 4
4 pears, peeled
½ bottle of wine of choice
1 orange, pealed into strips
3 cups, baby arugula
2 endives, thinly sliced
¼ cup dried cranberries
¼ cup pecans
8 oz. Roquefort cheese, at room temperature
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
½ cup olive oil
salt and freshly-cracked pepper

-In a small sauté pan, toast pecans at low heat. Once fragrant, let cool.
-Pour wine and enough water to reach ¾ way up the sides, into a large saucepan.
-Add in orange peel, and bring up to a boil.
-Once boiling, drop in pears and let cook for 20 minutes.
-Once cooked, remove with tongs and let cool to room temperature.
-For the vinaigrette, mix together balsamic vinegar, honey, olive oil, and salt and pepper. Set aside.
-In a large mixing bowl, dump in arugula, endive slices, cooled pecans, and cranberries.
-Once cooled, slice pears in half. Remove core with a teaspoon and discard.
-Spoon softened Roquefort cheese into the pear cavity.
-Toss salad with vinaigrette before serving. Check for seasoning.
-To serve, plate one pear half. Surround with salad.

Build Me Up, Butternut

Growing up, I used to dread the fall. I equated fall with re-donning my helplessly nerdy backpack, and worst of all, to cafeteria lunch hour. Once the sixth period bell rang, most kids zoomed out of class, brown bag in hand or dollar bills ready and pizza-bound. Not I. I sheepishly headed towards the florescent lights and conveyer belts, found my place amongst my girlfriends of the moment, and slowly rolled back my mother’s carefully folded lunch bag. Within laid the only sustenance my picky palate would permit my poor mom to include. Accustomed to after school “snacks” of grandma’s lemon and garlic roasted chicken thighs; sliced fruit à la dad, using a surgeon’s touch; and mom’s lamb chops…well, you can see why my dismal Chewy bar and baggy of Triscuits just didn’t bring out the lunchtime smiles in me.

Nowadays, my palate remains spoiled, but my pickiness has abated. In fact, I don’t know which made mom more glad: the day I received early acceptance to college, or the day I caved and tried my first sandwich (11th grade). And with this change, fall has taken on new meaning and become my favorite season in New York of all.

Butternut squash, pumpkin, pears, apples, cinnamon, cloves, short ribs…oh, my! Before I break out into a Julie Andrews reverie, allow me to return to prose. As the weather grows chillier, an entire arsenal of fall-friendly comfort foods grows more bountiful. And no ingredient speaks fall more clearly than butternut squash. Its deep orange color adds an attractive hue to any dish, its transitional quality from sweet to savory gives it plenty of face time, and the substantial texture packed in every bite of a roasted chunk gets you through the cooler temps.

These chunks are perfect on their own, or cooled down and mixed into a spinach salad. Using the pre-peeled and pre-sliced packages that are available everywhere in supermarkets this time of year, the process couldn’t be easier. And when butternut squash chunks are folded into a simmering risotto, their added texture and color makes the dish pop. These days, my 1pm “sixth period” is worry-free, with packed-up remnants of salty-sweet butternut squash risotto…that is, if you have any.
Serves 4
1 ½ cups of Arborio rice
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 pound pancetta, diced (optional)
4 cups of store-bought vegetable stock
½ cup white wine (whatever kind you like)
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 shallot, roughly chopped
1 pound butternut squash chunks, pre-peeled and sliced into 1 inch chunks
¼ cup freshly grated parmesan
roughly chopped parsley
salt and freshly-ground pepper
½ pound deveined shrimp, tails off (optional, as garnish)

-On a sheet pan, toss butternut squash chunks with olive oil, salt and pepper. Set in a 425 degree oven and let roast for about 20 minutes. Once, done set aside at room temperature.
-On another, smaller sheet pan do the same with shrimp and let roast for about 8 minutes or until pink.
-Pour the stock into a small saucepan and set to a simmer. Add in bay leaf.
-In a large, heavy sauté pan, add in butter and pancetta and set to medium heat.
-Once butter is melted and pancetta has browned, add in onion and shallot. Using a wooden spoon, stir until translucent and cooked through but not browned. About 4 minutes.
-Add in rice, and stir with onion, until coated.
-Pour in wine and stir. Let simmer until wine is fully absorbed.
-Using a ladle, add in two ladles per addition of stock. With each round, the rice will absorb the stock and grow and become creamier.
-Once all the stock is used up, the rice will be al dente, about 20-25 minutes. Taste to check for doneness.
-Take off of the heat and add in butternut squash chunks and parsley.
-Garnish with shrimp, if desired and grated parmesan.

DIY: Frozen Food

By now you’re familiar with my infatuation with crust-less baking. It’s not that I don’t enjoy the laborious process of rolling out a flaky tart crust; on the contrary, I can think of no greater pleasure. For now, within my studio kitchenette, the tactile thrill of meshing cool butter with airy flour must remain at the wayside. Rolling dough demands a comfortably large countertop, not to mention that my heavy wooden rolling pin is in storage. (For those without a rolling pin repertoire, a wine bottle is an excellent substitute…emptied, of course.)

So along my quest for crust-less pastries, I’ve come across a recipe for a crust-less mini quiche, from beloved blogger, Clotilde, of Chocolate & Zucchini fame. And I’ve never turned back. Quiches are the go-to of happy hours, after-work events, and just about any other excuse for a cocktail party. Everyone loves these egg-based bites which burst with whichever mix-in stuffing lies within. Mini quiches have the potential to be soggy, poorly seasoned, and lackluster. But the crust-less quiche measurements below make for a light and flavorful bite. It’s extremely flexible for making use of whichever leftover meats are taking up space in your fridge; be it veggies, chicken, or cheese. And best of all, these are a perfect candidate for freezing. When sealed within a tight container or Ziploc bag, these minis are a cook’s best friend: loyal and always there for you at a moment’s notice. Mini quiches with goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, and leeks
Makes about 35:
1 ½ cups whole milk
3 eggs
¾ cup flour
1 bunch leeks, washed and dried, and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup sundried tomatoes, roughly chopped
8 oz. log of goat cheese, broken up with your fingers into small clumps
roughly chopped fresh parsley
olive oil
salt and freshly-ground pepper

-Coat a mini muffin tin with cooking spray. I can thank my mother for introducing me to Bak-Klene baking spray, which is fantastic. You can find it at Williams-Sonoma, and it will leave your baked goods without the residual brown exterior which Pam spray can so often leave.
-Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
-In a large sauté pan, drop in oil, and set to medium heat. Add in leeks and garlic and sauté until cooked through, using a wooden spoon. Let cool.
-In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together eggs and milk.
-Sift flour into mixture, and season with salt and pepper.
-Add in leek mixture, parsley, and goat cheese, stirring until just combined. The batter will be thin.
-Using a teaspoon, fill up the mini muffin pan until about ¾ high.
-Place in oven and cook until golden brown and puffed up, about 25 minutes.
-Let cool and enjoy, or store in the freezer for later use, in an airtight container.

Winter Hibernation: The cheapest airfare yet

This morning, gingerly holding tight to my coffee mug in one hand, I reached deep into the dark recesses of my closet. And out I came, thoroughly depressed, with my winter coat.

The cold is upon us. Wrapped up in scarf, hat, and gloves, and of course that aired-out winter coat, gone is my desire to leave work for a spontaneous, meandering stroll. Instead, I favorably look towards hibernating as my late fall sport of choice.

Don’t get me wrong – I thoroughly enjoy this time of year for several gourmand-related reasons:
We have the excuse to shoo away simple salads in favor of comfort foods which take advantage of fall and winter’s great produce. Gone is the need to stick my head in the freezer while stirring a simmering sauce. Open up that oven, let the steam rise from your stovetop, and bask in your newly acquired hunger for warm, satisfying dinner fare.

And lastly, with hibernation comes the need for creativity. If you’re going to be shacked up a lot, you might as well make it fun. Invite a couple friends over for a themed dinner party, or simply cook up a romantically Parisian or Roman tête à tête for two. Whatever type of cuisine you’re into, the cooler weather allows your dishes to take on a multitude of dinnertime personalities.

Maybe you’ve been picnicking outside all summer, but that doesn’t mean you always have to sit around the dining room or kitchen table, now that it's late fall. Take a cue from the east, and pop a squat Moroccan-style on cozy pillows with a finger-food friendly dinner set out before you and your guests.

Moroccan lamb meatballs couldn’t be easier to prepare. You can even make the meatball mixture the night before, shaping the balls and refrigerating. The day of, you can fry the meatballs whenever you have the time, and reheat in the oven before serving. You can purchase a couple of store-bought sides like a colorful couscous, some naan (like I did from Trader Joe's), olives, and roasted veggies. With the meatballs’ distinctly exotic spice, you’ll show your friends that hibernating can be the new mode of transport.

Serves 6
2 pounds ground lamb, at room temperature
2 eggs, at room temperature
¼ prunes, roughly chopped
1 shallot, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 orange, zested using a microplane
1 teaspoon of ground cumin
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
roughly chopped herbs (try parsley and rosemary)

-In a medium-sized bowl, incorporate all ingredients.
-Shape into roughly 2 inch sized meatballs, and place onto a sheet pan or dish covered with aluminum foil or parchment paper, for easy clean-up.
-Heat up a large skillet to medium-high heat and add in enough olive oil to coat. You don’t need to much oil because lamb releases a good amount of grease.
-Working in batches, as needed, sear lamb on both sides for about 3 minutes, or until golden brown.
-Set aside and re-warm in a 350 degree oven before serving.

Sushi: Definitely not a black belt but getting there

I’ve always steered clear of making Japanese food, reserving it in my mental food bank under “foods I enjoy eating out, not in.” This changed last Sunday night.

Background summary: My sister, Julie, recently received an overbearing, intimidating package of sushi-making ingredients from her trusty friend from work, Pam. Ever the thrill-seeking home cook, Julie created a frighteningly delicious, but daunting menu, listed below.
wonton soup with pork-filled dumplings
spicy tuna maki
shitake mushroom maki (added on because we just had so many shitakes lying around, not that I’m complaining)
my go-to “chop chop” salad
Julie’s panko-crusted salmon (based on Ina Garten’s recipe), which we had on stand-by in the event of sushi-making failure)

Pre-sushi solution: a bloody maryIt was Sunday morning, after all. And a football Sunday, at that! I needed to calm my nerves so I could keep a cool head in this experimental kitchen. And I simply cannot, and will not ever, turn down one of my brother-in-law, Oliver’s, bloody marys. You have to buy the heirloom tomato bloody mary mix which he purchased recently at Fairway. God, this is good. Very spicy. We let Oliver into the kitchen, with his own private cutting board station, to whip up these not-so-Japanese, but highly effective marys. Check out the tools at hand: old bay seasoning, Stoli vodka, lemon, and that awesome mix.

We started off by making the rice. And this was definitely the coolest part. It turned out just right, although we do need to adjust the seasoning next time (I’ve adjusted here, below). The rice is cooked in less water than your standard rice, so that once cooked, the kernels can gratefully absorb their seasoning components of rice wine vinegar, sugar, and salt. At room temperature, the rice is placed atop the nori before folding with your bamboo mat (these are only $1 or $2, and can be found at most kitchen supply stores.)

I have never had so much fun in the kitchen or have been so rewarded, recently. And I swear it wasn’t the Stoli! I felt as I did the first time I successfully tackled a challenging layer cake recipe. I must admit that Julie, with her tiny hands, exceedingly more delicate than my own, caught on to the sushi trade quicker than I. Still, I can’t believe that I had shied away from making sushi all this time. Although I am no sushi master, this is simpler stuff than I once thought, and so fun to do with a group. Follow this recipe for spicy tuna maki, and you’re well on your way to your next sushi/sake night. These days, with sushi-making ingredients and tools pretty much everywhere, there's no reason not to harness the sushi chef in you.

Makes about 25 rolls:
1 ½ cups of Koshihikari rice
2 cups water
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
nori sheets
2 tuna steaks
¼ cup mayonnaise
black sesame seeds, optional
4 tablespoons asian chile sauce (we used sriracha)

-Place both rice and water into a large stovetop pot. Bring up to a boil, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon.
-Let it boil for a minute and then reduce heat to a low simmer and cover.
-Keep simmering, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes.
-In the meantime, in a small bowl, mix together rice wine vinegar, salt, and sugar.
-At the 20 minute mark, taste a kernel of rice to check for doneness.
-Once cooked through, but slightly firm, set aside. Incorporate seasoning mixture, stirring throughout.
-Slice tuna steaks into chunks. Place in a food processor and pulse two or three times. You don’t want to ground up the sushi, but you want it to be evenly chopped up.
-In a medium-sized bowl, combine mayonnaise and chile sauce. Mix in tuna.
-On a clean work space, lay out bamboo mat. Place a small dish of cool water nearby, because this is going to get sticky!
-Place one sheet of nori over the mat, with the smooth side facing down. Dipping your hands into the water dish, scoop out some rice and pat onto the nori, leaving a ½ inch border. Don’t add too much rice, just a thin layer.
- Place spicy tuna (about 2 tablespoons worth) a ½ inch above the bottom rice border, in a horizontal layer.
-Take hold of the bamboo from below the nori and fold up and over, pressing down. Lift up, gently, and pat some water in there so that the first roll adheres. Roll again and secure with water.
-Using a small sharp knife, slice thinly (about ½ inch), and set aside on your sushi platter.
-Make some soy sauce and wasabi dipping bowls, and you’re set.

Veal cutlets: late night fare

It had been a long week. And it had been an even longer two hours making it through a Friday early evening screening of Couples Retreat. While Vince Vaughn spurted out his usual roundabout quips, I drifted off into a preparatory reverie of what to make for dinner when I’d finally make it back to my Park Slope kitchen.

Ahhh, the soothing task of drumming up the right meal for the post-film dinner for two. I wanted it to be something simple, since we would be dining late. Nothing over-complicated and sauce-based at that hour. I wanted satisfying bistro fare. Veal cutlets with lemony arugula and shaved parmesan is just what I was in the mood for, and I think you’ll find a place for this one in your “go-to” repertoire.

Everyone has made chicken cutlets before. With the factory assembly set-up of three bowls (one with flour, one with whisked eggs, and one with store-bought breadcrumbs), my high school babysitting days grew to be an absolute drive-by breeze. Even kids are fascinated by the pure fun of dipping your protein of choice, getting them coated, and off to lightly fry. But there are many tricks of the trade along the way to ensure a crispy, golden brown exterior for my protein of choice, veal. And why veal? I often seek an alternative to chicken, and veal has a rich flavor that makes standard bistro fare extra special for a Friday night dinner.

Serves 2
For the veal:
2 thinly pounded veal cutlets (these come very inexpensive in your local grocery store, and should be about ¼ inch thick)
2 eggs, whisked in a shallow bowl
¼ cup flour, placed in a shallow bowl
½ cup Italian breadcrumbs, placed in a shallow bowl
Salt and freshly-ground pepper
chile flakes, optional
Olive oil

-Lightly wash and pat dry veal. You want to have no excess water on the veal so that the coating adheres smoothly.
-Season the cutlets on both sides with salt and freshly-ground pepper. Press into the cutlets.
-Using one hand (or tongs), dip a cutlet into the flour. Pat off excess.
-Moving onto the eggs, dip in, and let hang above to remove off all excess.
-Drop cutlet into the breadcrumbs, and bring mixture up and over the veal so that all is covered. Lift up and pat off, looking for any uncovered spots.
-Set aside in a dish lined with tin foil (for easy clean-up), and repeat with the second cutlet.
-At this point, I set aside the veal so that the coating has time to rest before frying. This can be done in advance and refrigerated for a day.
- Heat up a large skillet with extra-virgin olive oil, so that there is about ¼ inch layer in your pan. Drop in salt and chile flakes (if you like spice as I do). Spread seasonings around with a wooden spoon.
-Once the oil is hot, drop the cutlets in, one on either side. They should immediately sizzle. If not, your pan must heat up more.
-Let the veal fry on one side for 4 minutes. Do not lift up while cooking, so that the veal has enough contact with the pan to develop a nice coating.
-Using tongs, flip and let cook for another 4 minutes.
-Meanwhile, clean the dish lined with foil, and re-line with paper towels. When the veal comes out, let it sit on the towel to drain excess oil.

For the salad:
2 cups baby arugula (washed and dried)
½ lemon, juiced
1/8 cup olive oil
cherry tomatoes, halved
pine nuts, toasted and cooled
Salt and freshly-ground pepper
block of parmesan

-In your salad bowl, whisk together lemon juice and olive oil. Season to taste.
- Drop in arugula and halved tomatoes. Toss until just coated. Taste for seasoning.
- Plate salad with pine nuts as garnish.
- Layer veal over the lettuce.
- Shave parmesan over and serve.
The lettuce will slightly wilt from the warm veal, rounding out each flavor component into one simple, satisfying plate of late night fare.

A Salmon for all Seasons

Last night, Mike graced me with a salmon dish which is tender, flavorful, light, and simple to prepare. You will love how this recipe removes any fear you might have of pan-searing fish. By simply baking the salmon with a generous coating of fresh herbs and surrounding it with a nice dose of white wine, the salmon both steams (delectably, in alcohol!) and develops an appealing crust. Both textures are accomplished by little work more than chopping the herbs to release their flavors and slipping the fish into a preheated oven. Ah, yes - and sampling your wine of choice to see if it'll do your fresh filets justice!

I admit that I must always contribute something to a meal, or I feel ill at ease and distanced from the kitchen. That just won’t do (I give you full permission to call me a Food Nazi. Others have before…), so I decided to make a panzanella salad to go with A Salmon for all Seasons.

How can you shy away from a salad which replaces bread for lettuce? Homemade croutons are balanced out with nice chunks of fresh veggies, so it’s really not a case of bread basket overkill. The croutons soak up a caesar-like dressing. Sliced raw shallots and capers pack in an extra zing. Capers pair excellently with fish (think of smoked salmon), and the heartiness of panzanella matched up nicely with the delicacy of Mike’s salmon.

Serves 2

For the salmon:
2 medium-sized wild salmon filets, gently rinsed and patted dry
3 stalks scallions, thinly sliced
generous bunch of fresh dill, roughly chopped
generous bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
zest of 1 lemon
salt and freshly-ground black pepper
olive oil
¼ cup white wine (Mike wisely selected Trader Joes' Chardonnay - cheap and flavorful)

-Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

-Stir together fresh herbs and lemon zest in a small bowl.
-Place filets in a small glass baking dish.
-Lightly rub with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.
-Pack the herb mixture on top of the filets. There should be a generous coating on each.
-Pour in white wine alongside the filets, and cook for 15 minutes, or until slightly browned on top, liquid has reduced, or at desired doneness.
-Let cool for 5 minutes and serve.

For the panzanella:
1 demi-baguette, or half of a baguette (alternatively, any crusty bread which you enjoy)
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 red pepper, sliced into chunks
1 yellow pepper, sliced into chunks
1 hothouse cucumber, sliced down the middle with seeds removed, and sliced into chunks
3 tablespoons capers (or less, if you don’t like as much as I do)
generous bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
2 gloves garlic, finely minced
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 egg yolk (omit if desired)
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper

-Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
-Slice the baguette into about 1-inch chunks and place on a cookie sheet.
-Sprinkle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Toss with hands to coat, and place in oven. Remove croutons once they are lightly browned and crispy, about 8 to 10 minutes.
-Meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk together garlic, mustard, lemon juice, egg yolk, vinegar, salt and pepper. Add in olive oil, whisking, until fully dispersed. Set aside.
-In a large bowl, add in peppers, shallots, and cucumber chunks. Add in chopped parsley and capers. Once the croutons have cooled, add in. Toss with vinaigrette, taste for seasoning, and serve.